Sweet, tangy, and packed with probiotics, gira has long been a cherished winter tonic—and it’s now making a comeback in craft breweries and kombucha-style artisanal brands.

When Tadas Eidukevičius was designing his latest winter menu at Demoloftas in Vilnius, Lithuania, the Michelin-starred chef turned to an unassuming staple: the turnip. Instead of deconstructing the ingredient beyond recognition, Eidukevičius slow-roasted and lightly smoked it before serving it with gira, Lithuania’s traditional fermented beverage.

“I wanted to create a dish that highlights Lithuania’s traditions, and using gira in the glaze brought so many flavors together without overcomplicating things—it was a no-brainer,” says Eidukevičius. “The gira adds acidity, sweetness, and a pleasant tang, enhancing the otherwise simple vegetable.”

While Eidukevičius’ innovative approach captured the attention of Michelin inspectors, gira remains largely absent from Lithuania’s fine-dining scene. Instead, it is a household staple, enjoyed chilled in summer or as a soothing remedy for a sore throat. Once brewed at home out of necessity—especially during Soviet times when resources were scarce—its growing popularity in recent years has led to mass production, with canned versions now available in supermarkets and corner shops throughout the country.

Dating back to ancient times, gira is more commonly known as kvass across northeastern Europe, where it is made from grains, fruits, or vegetables. It remains a beloved drink in Baltic and Slavic countries, where fermentation traditions run deep.

“Traditionally, in Lithuania, it was a homemade drink using old rye bread—a practical way to repurpose leftovers,” explains Tomas Josas, a beer historian and Lithuania’s 2023 beer sommelier champion, who grew up drinking his grandparents’ homebrewed gira. “Fermentation not only preserved nutrients but also lowered the pH, killing harmful bacteria—making kvass safer to drink than water.”

A traditional recipe involves soaking toasted or dried-out rye bread in hot water to extract its flavor. Once cooled, yeast and sometimes raisins are added to initiate natural fermentation. The liquid is then cooled, strained, and bottled, ready to be consumed within three to five days. The result is a slightly tart, mildly effervescent drink with an ABV of up to 1.2%, akin to traditionally brewed kombucha. Rich in probiotics, it supports gut health and immunity. In Lithuania, traditionalists consider it a tonic for colds, often enhanced with honey, ginger, and herbs.

“When I was little, my grandmother made gira for Easter and Christmas as a festive drink, but we also drank it as a natural remedy when sick,” recalls Ieva Šidlaitė, a cultural historian and author of Naturally Fermented, who teaches fermentation classes on her farm outside Vilnius. “Before the 20th century, when sugar became widely available, it was fully fermented, sour, and non-carbonated. It was mostly used to acidify food, make soups, and enhance sauces—sour flavors dominate our cuisine.”

Josas agrees. “Many believed kvass supported digestion and immunity due to its probiotics. My great-grandparents’ homebrewed gira was very different from today’s commercial versions, which are sweeter. Traditional gira had a funky, tangy flavor from lactobacillus—like liquid sauerkraut. As a child, I didn’t like it because it wasn’t sweet, but after getting into beer, I grew to appreciate its complexity.”

The early 1980s marked what Josas calls “the golden age of gira,” with mobile barrels selling it on every street corner during summer. However, as global soft drinks like Coke entered the Baltic market, gira struggled to compete, losing its appeal. To survive, manufacturers began mass-producing it with added sugar and cheap malt extract, shifting it closer to soda than traditional fermentation.

“Kvass lacks a strong identity, a clear drinking culture, or an image that appeals to younger generations,” Josas notes. While gira shares the same probiotic benefits as kombucha, it has never been marketed as a health drink. But things are changing. Artisanal gira brands are reviving traditional methods and tapping into kombucha’s success.

One of Lithuania’s largest beer and gira producers, Gubernija Brewery, still brews its gira traditionally using black grain bread. However, the 360-year-old brewery is also adapting to modern tastes.

“In recent years, we have introduced different varieties of kvass to attract a wider audience,” says Jogailė Čojūtė, export specialist for Gubernija Brewery. “For example, our white wheat bread gira is designed for younger consumers who prefer trendy soft drinks. The flavor is milder. Another popular variant is our dark rye bread gira with hemp and hints of lime—a refreshing twist on the traditional recipe, proving that gira can stand the test of time.”

“In 2024, sales of our gira brands increased by 18% compared to the previous year,” she adds, “while export sales grew by 47%.”

Globally, interest in non-alcoholic and low-ABV beverages is rising, and kvass is gaining traction. In the US, breweries, bakeries, and restaurants are creating their own versions. Dan Woods of Beaver Brewing Company in Pennsylvania produces kvass in his nanobrewery, while Honey’s in East Williamsburg, New York, once featured kvass on tap. Made with chunks of toasted dark sourdough rye bread left to ferment, the slightly tart drink was sweetened with honey and even served as a cocktail ingredient.

As craft breweries and fermentation enthusiasts rediscover this ancient beverage, gira is experiencing a well-deserved revival, proving that sometimes, the best flavors come from the past.